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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.